My Recycled Montpellier
I’ve been wanting to make the Montpellier Top by November Knits since the moment I saw it but finding a 10ply yarn for a somewhat summery knit with sufficient eco-creds proved difficult. I tried swatching with a few thinner yarns held together but the resulting fabric was never quite right.
So when I discovered Citizen Wolf Recycled 10ply by Dempstah it was an instant decision. The blend of cotton + merino makes it perfect for a summery vest but means it can also transition to cooler weather.
THE PATTERN
Montpellier Top by November Knits
My gauge was bang on with the recommended needles (got to love it when that happens). It’s a very quick and simple knit and the instructions were easy to follow. Having no ribbing or binding around the armholes a) makes it quicker and easier but b) means you need to make sure your edge stitches are neat (don’t start and end your balls at the end of your rows!). Getting a uniform stitch can be more difficult when using plant based yarns so the added wool content of Citizen Wolf Recycled helped to keep a neat edge.
I really love the ribbed panel detail down the side and it’s one of the features that drew me to the pattern in the first place. What I didn’t appreciate was that this means the garment is pulled in very slightly at the sides, so it’s not a completely boxy shaped tank. Personally I love a total boxy silhoutte, but I’m happy to take this small sacrifice for the interesting side feature which does really elevate the design. I usually wear my tops tucked in at the front anyway which means the shaping isn’t really apparent.
I love making and wearing fine knits so I wasn’t sure how often I’d wear a more chunky summer vest but have been surprised to find myself reaching for it over and over again. I think I wore it nearly every day for the first week after I made it and I’ve subsequently worn it both on its own and over t-shirts and merinos. Partly it’s due to the easy, relaxed design but also it’s because of the yarn.
THE YARN
Dempstah creates sustainability minded yarn utilising textile waste sourced in Australia. For Citizen Wolf Recycled the textile waste comes from the manufacturing offcuts from Citizen Wolf - a Sydney based label who create high quality basics from quality organic cotton and merino. The offcuts are then blended with virgin Australian Merino wool to create a unique, natural and circular yarn. No additional bleaches or dyes are added meaning the final colour results from the initial sorting of the textiles/scraps. It’s a labour intensive, highly skilled but low impact process and Dempstah was recently awarded the eBay Circular Fashion Fund 2024. You can learn much more about the process on the Dempstah website.
Knitting this yarn was a breeze. It’s soft and pillowy and surprisingly light due to the merino/cotton blend. Recycled yarns naturally have a slightly more rustic nature and I love the character, depth and texture this adds to the garment. Because it’s made from short fibres (created by breaking down existing fabrics) they can be more prone to pilling. I have worn mine several times and can see a small amount of pilling forming where my top rubs against my bag, but nothing out of the ordinary for hand-knits. It’s important to remember that pilling is normal plus we have just the tools for dealing with it.
The yarn bloomed nicely after I blocked it with little change in the dimensions of my finished garment. On wearing it I have not noticed any stretching or sagging. I would describe this yarn as looking and feeling a lot like wool but with added crispness and structure from the cotton. Cotton does wrinkle so if you scrunch your top up in your drawer it will come out crumpled and need a steam. Also, whenever using yarns that include plant fibres remember they don’t have the same natural elasticity as wool so keep your cast ons and your cast off’s loose or opt for stretchy versions. For the Montpellier I used a standard, but loose, cast off at the bottom hem and I bound off the neckline using the Tubular (Italian) bind off which provides more stretch and a nice neat finish. In retrospect the Tubular bind off would have been a better option for the bottom hem as well.
I love the colours of all the Dempstah yarns, which look amazing on their own, but also together. Incredibly all the colours are created purely through the sorting of the textiles, not through bleaching or dyeing. I lean towards cool based tones (cool winter for any other colour analysis nerds out there) and Chalk is the perfect light, icy grey for me - something I don’t find often. This has been the most popular colour and we were lucky to nab the last remaining skeins so be warned it may not stick around!
Citizen Wolf Recycled (Top Left, clockwise): Chalk, Charcoal, Denim, Musk, Sage
THE VERDICT
A resounding success! This project ended up being more than I hoped for. The Montpellier Top is a lovely, easy and satisfying pattern for anyone and also a great option for more novice knitters. Citizen Wolf Recycled | 10ply is its confirmed perfect match 🖤.
I love this yarn, its story and what it represents. I’m already searching for my next pattern so I can knit with it again. If you want to check out some of the gorgeous options I’ve encountered on the way head to our Pinterest Board | 10ply Knitting Patterns.