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Birgitta Helmersson

ZERO WASTE BELL JACKET | PDF Sewing Pattern

ZERO WASTE BELL JACKET | PDF Sewing Pattern

Regular price $27.00 NZD
Regular price Sale price $27.00 NZD
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The ZW Bell Jacket by Birgitta Helmersson is an oversized jacket with a rounded collar, front button closure, 3 front patch pockets, an inverted box pleat at the centre back neck, and wide sleeves that are perfect for fitting all of your winter layers underneath.

The Bell jacket gets its name from the bell shaped sleeve, created with several darts sewn into the hem of the sleeve. This jacket is fully lined.

This pattern comes in two size ranges and includes 2 hack options, a shirt and an un-lined quilted version.

Heads up! This is a digital PDF sewing pattern. You will not receive a physical pattern, you will be emailed a link to download the pattern after purchase.

Description

There are 2 size options for this jacket with slight design variations between each. The Size Two has two panels at the centre back body and has more of a dropped shoulder than the Size One.

The PDF instruction booklet contains embedded links taking you to online tutorials with colour images to help with most of the more involved sewing instructions. 

It also comes with 2 hack options, a shirt with a square collar and an un-lined quilted version. Both of these have online tutorials for the extra steps. 

Sewing level: Intermediate

PDF Contents: Includes measurements in both metric (centimetres)and US imperial (inches). Booklet/Templates are printable on both A4 or US Letter paper size.

Fabric + Notions

Fabric type: Ideal in a wool, heavyweight denim or heavy cotton drill. Recommended linings, something with a bit of weight that has a nice drape. Required lining width is very specific and is based on the main fabric width you are using

Fabric Requirements:

Recommended width

  • Main Fabric: 145cm - 155cm / 57 - 61 inches
  • Lining Fabric: 135cm - 145cm / 53 - 57 inches based on outer width used

Recommended yardage

  • Size One: Outer- 130cm / 51", Lining- 120cm / 47"
  • Size Two: Outer- 150cm / 59", Lining- 140cm / 55"

*This is a guide only, these yardage requirements may change a little if you want to adjust the lengths of the sleeves and body. Refer to the Instruction Booklet for more details on width and yardage requirements.

Notions:

  • Iron on fusing in a mid to heavy weight. Required to fuse the hems and collar.
  • Binding 4cm / 1.5” wide to finish the centre front bodies and back neck facing, you will require approximately 150cm / 59”.
  • 4-5 buttons approx 20mm / 3/4” in size

Size Chart

This is an oversized shape with 2 size ranges. The maximum bust/hip for each size depends on the fabric width you use. Suitable for up to a 152cm / 60" hip. There are also tips in the Instruction Booklet for making adjustments to the pattern to size up further.

Size One

  • Fabric Width 145cm / 57": max bust 96cm / 38", max hip 101cm / 40"
  • Fabric Width 150cm / 59": max bust 101cm / 40", max hip 108cm / 42"
  • Fabric Width 155cm / 61": max bust 106cm / 42", max hip 111cm / 44"

Size Two

  • Fabric Width 145cm / 57": max bust 133cm / 52", max hip 142cm / 56"
  • Fabric Width 150cm / 59": max bust 138cm / 54", max hip 147cm / 58"
  • Fabric Width 155cm / 61": max bust 143cm / 56", max hip 152cm / 60"

Method

Zero waste pattern cutting is a method of pattern drafting where you utilise a length of fabric end to end by strategically planning your pattern pieces so that everything is used. This pattern is ‘paperless’ meaning that no printing of large pattern pieces is required. Instead of using full scale paper patterns, you draw your pattern pieces directly onto your fabric with the aid of a cutting plan and small templates.

Advantages to this method include:

More flexibility
This method allows for easy changes such as using different fabric widths and making simple fit and design changes yourself. Using patterns that fit into a zero waste square or rectangular block is a very efficient way to work. It means that it is easier to patchwork together remnants or use left over fabrics you already have lying around.

An easy way to learn to self draft your own patterns
Working this way will help you to start building a toolbox of skills, and you will learn an alternative method of self drafting your own sewing patterns, which are super easy for beginners to understand.

Less fabric and paper waste

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