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Birgitta Helmersson



Regular price $20.00 NZD
Regular price Sale price $20.00 NZD
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The ZW Soft Blouse by Birgitta Helmersson is an oversized top with a dropped shoulder and comes with 2 sleeve options, a gathered and twisted double layer sleeve or a long sleeve with a gathered and elasticated wrist. The front has side bust darts for shaping. The neckline is a minimal crew neck finished with a back bind and a split with loop and button at the centre back to close.

This pattern comes in 3 size ranges and includes 2 hack options; a sleeveless top with darts on the shoulder for shaping and a dress with V-neck front, side pockets and gathered skirt. All pattern options in this book are easily mixed and matched.

Heads up! This is a digital PDF sewing pattern. You will not receive a physical pattern, you will be emailed a link to download the pattern after purchase.


This style comes with 3 size options included within the one pattern booklet:

  • EU 36/38/40
  • EU 42/44/46
  • EU 48/50/52

All sizes options are included in the the purchase. The ZW Soft Blouse is easy to grade up or down in sizing and each one can be modified easily to suit your needs.

Sewing level: Advanced beginner

PDF Contents: Includes measurements in both metric (centimetres)and US imperial (inches). Booklet/Templates are printable on both A4 or US Letter paper size.

Fabric + Notions

Fabric type: This style works beautifully in a woven fabric, approximately 80-160gsm in a lightweight linen, cotton, silk or viscose. The twisted sleeve with gathers into the armhole can become quite bulky if the fabric is too thick so be mindful of this when choosing something. 

This pattern also uses a contrast fabric for the back binding.

Fabric Requirements:

Recommended widths by size

  • EU 36/38/40 : 110 - 145cm / 43 - 57 inches
  • EU 42/44/46 : 125 - 145cm / 49 - 57 inches
  • EU 48/50/52 : 135 - 155cm / 53 - 61 inches

Recommended yardage by size and sleeve option

  • EU 36/38/40 : Twisted Sleeve (Option C): 140cm / 54 1/2 inch, Long Sleeve (Option D): 126cm / 50 inch
  • EU 42/44/46 : Twisted Sleeve (Option C): 140cm / 55 inch, Long Sleeve (Option D): 139cm / 54 1/2 inch
  • EU 48/50/52 : Twisted Sleeve (Option C): 140cm / 56 inch, Long Sleeve (Option D): 152cm / 60 1/2 inch


  • 1 button approx 10mm-12mm / 1/2 inch wide.
  • Lightweight binding/bias strip approx 75 - 85cm / 29 1/2 - 33 1/2 inch long in a 30mm / 1 1/8 inch width.

Size Chart

Size EU 36/38/40: Chest 86-96cm / 33-37", waist 66-76cm / 26-29", hip 88-98cm / 34-38"

Size EU 42/44/46: Chest 101-115cm / 39-49", waist 81-95cm / 31-37", hip 103-117cm / 40-46"

Size EU 48/50/52: Chest 120-135cm / 47-53", waist 100-115cm / 39-45", hip 122-137cm / 48/54"

Finished Garment Measuremensts EU 36/38/40: 

  • Length, shoulder to hem: 53cm / 20 1/2 inch
  • Body circumference: 120cm / 47 inch
  • Twisted sleeve (sleeve option C) length, neck to sleeve hem: 41cm / 16 inch
  • Long sleeve (sleeve option D) : fit length to yourself

Finished Garment Measurements EU 42/44/46:

  • Length, shoulder to hem: 56cm / 22 inch
  • Body circumference: 136cm / 53 inch
  • Twisted sleeve (sleeve option C) length, neck to sleeve hem: 43.5cm / 17 inch
  • Long sleeve (sleeve option D) : fit length to yourself

Finished Garment Measurements EU 48/50/52: 

  • Length, shoulder to hem: 59cm / 23 1/4 inch
  • Body circumference: 152cm / 60 inch
  • Twisted sleeve (sleeve option C) length, neck to sleeve hem: 44.5cm / 17 1/2 inch
  • Long sleeve (sleeve option D) : fit length to yourself

*Please note this garment is cut on the crosswise grain which means that your length is largely determined by your fabric width. Length, shoulder to hem, is based on using the recommended hem turn up for each size. This is easily adjustable by changing your hem turn up accordingly.


Zero waste pattern cutting is a method of pattern drafting where you utilise a length of fabric end to end by strategically planning your pattern pieces so that everything is used. This pattern is ‘paperless’ meaning that no printing of large pattern pieces is required. Instead of using full scale paper patterns, you draw your pattern pieces directly onto your fabric with the aid of a cutting plan and small templates.

Advantages to this method include:

More flexibility
This method allows for easy changes such as using different fabric widths and making simple fit and design changes yourself. Using patterns that fit into a zero waste square or rectangular block is a very efficient way to work. It means that it is easier to patchwork together remnants or use left over fabrics you already have lying around.

An easy way to learn to self draft your own patterns
Working this way will help you to start building a toolbox of skills, and you will learn an alternative method of self drafting your own sewing patterns, which are super easy for beginners to understand.

Less fabric and paper waste

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