Natural Sewing Thread | Everything You Need To Know (Cotton, Tencel™ and more)

WHAT IS NATURAL SEWING THREAD?

Natural sewing threads are made of plant-based or cellulose-dervied fibres (cotton, Tencel™)  rather than synthetic fibres.

Once upon a time only natural threads were available and even now in some craft forms such as quilting, natural threads are preferred over their synthetic counterpart. 

 

WHAT IS CONVENTIONAL THREAD MADE FROM?

Conventional threads are made from synthetic fibres such as polyester or nylon (aka plastic). 

Polyester/Nylon is:

• derived from petroleum (fossil fuels)
• extremely strong and durable
• resistant to breaking and shrinking

But it also:

• sheds microplastics
• does not biodegrade
• can prevent garments from being fully circular at end of life

Despite popular opinion polyester thread is also not always the best choice when sewing garments, especially when sewing with natural fabrics. Read on to find out why!

 

WHAT ARE THE ADVANTAGES OF USING NATURAL SEWING THREADS?

 

PLASTIC-FREE

No synthetic fibres means no micro-plastic shedding during and less reliance on fossil fuel based materials

 

BIODEGRADABLE

Natural threads have the potential to biodegrade once in the correct environmental conditions. Unlike synthetic fibres that take hundreds of years to break down and even then will always remain as microplastic particles.

 

CIRCULARITY

Natural threads, when used alongside natural fibres can simplify the end of life options for a garment. Garments where thread and fabric composition are matched can be more easily recycled, re-dyed and designed to be fully biodegradable.

 

LOOK BETTER

Natural threads blend more seamlessly in with natural fabrics giving finished garments a more cohesive look. They also fade and age alongside the fabric creating a garment that wears and ages naturally and beautifully.

 

FUN FACT - many fashion manufacturers use cotton covered polyester thread for exactly this reason, it looks better on natural fabrics.

 

DYEABILITY

Natural fibres take dye differently compared to synthetic fibres. If you dye a cotton t-shirt with polyester thread you will notice that the thread comes out a different shade to the rest of the garment. Using natural threads alongside natural fabrics means you can dye you whole garment and it will come out with a nicer, more intentional look - extending the life of garments.

 

NO MELTING

We've all experienced the frustration of running the iron over our linen make to find the polyester stitches go shiny. Cotton threads are not damaged under your iron, so are perfect for sewing cotton, hemp and linen where high ironing temperatures are needed.

 

TRANSPARANCY

It’s difficult to find any polyester threads with a transparent supply chain. In contrast it’s possible to know exactly where and how cotton and Tencel™ threads were created - from fibre to thread. Check out the origin story from our newest thread supplier Sewpure™ for an incredible example of transparency through the supply chain.

 

 

ARE NATURAL THREADS STRONG ENOUGH?

Yes — despite what many of us have been led to believe, it is entirely possible to create functional, durable garments using natural threads.

Polyester sewing thread is prized for its strength and flexibility. For garments made from synthetic fabrics*, and in modern industrial settings that prioritise speed and cost efficiency, polyester thread became the preferred option over natural alternatives.

However, for many home sewists and smaller fashion brands working primarily with natural fabrics — and in lower-pressure production environments — natural threads can actually be the better choice.

We asked Julie Moore, founder of Sewpure organic sewing threads, for her perspective on the strength of cotton thread:

“(Sewpure™) … Organic cotton thread is different from polyester thread in that it has not been mercerized or coated with anything. So, when you pull a single strand of it from end-to-end it snaps quicker than polyester thread which makes people think it won’t perform well in the garment. 

The actual performance of organic thread is the same as polyester thread once it’s in the garment, due to long staple length and fiber thickness. Our testing and experience of our customers shows that durability is excellent."

 

*up to 65% of all fibres used in the textile industry are now synthetic - Source Common Objective

 

WHY DOES NATURAL THREAD SOMETIMES BREAK WHILE SEWING?

If you’ve experienced natural thread snapping while sewing, you’re not alone — and it doesn’t mean the thread isn’t strong enough.

In most cases, breakage comes down to machine setup rather than the thread itself. Natural threads haven’t been coated or reinforced in the same way as polyester, which means they can be more sensitive to tension, needle choice, and machine condition.

Common causes include:

• Tension set too high
• Needle too small, worn, or with a rough eye
• Burrs or rough spots in the machine
• Thread path friction (especially at speed)

Once these factors are adjusted, natural threads perform reliably in most garment applications, and even in manufacturing environments.

 

ARE NATURAL THREADS BAD FOR MY MACHINE?

No — natural threads are not bad for your sewing machine.

In fact, cotton and other natural fibre threads have been used in sewing machines for decades, long before polyester became widely available.

However, because natural threads are typically uncoated and less uniform than polyester, they can produce a little more lint and may be slightly more sensitive to machine setup.

In practice, this simply means:

• Cleaning your machine regularly
• Using a suitable needle
• Ensuring your tension is well balanced

With these small adjustments, natural threads can be used safely and successfully in most sewing machines.

 

WHAT ABOUT STRETCH FABRICS?

When it comes to stretch sewing, the choice of thread becomes especially important.

Natural threads like cotton have very little elasticity, which means they’re not always suitable for highly elastic fabrics — particularly synthetic stretch materials like elastane blends. In these cases, the thread needs to be able to stretch and recover along with the fabric to prevent seams from snapping during wear.

For stretch garments, we generally recommend using a thread with some flexibility, such as Tencel™ thread or polyester thread, depending on the fabric and end use.

If you’re working with natural stretch fabrics (like knits made from cotton or wool), cotton thread can still work in some applications — especially when combined with stitch techniques that allow for movement.

Ultimately, it comes down to pairing your thread with your fabric and the function of the garment. Choosing the right thread for the job will always give you the best result.

 

HOW TO SEW SUCCESSFULLY WITH NATURAL THREADS

Sewing with natural threads doesn’t require a completely different approach — but a few small adjustments can make all the difference.

Here are some simple ways to get the best results:

• Start with a high-quality, new thread
  Natural fibres can degrade over time, especially if they’ve been exposed to light, heat, or humidity. Vintage or older threads are more likely to be brittle and prone to snapping, so using a fresh, high-quality thread is key.
• Check your needle
  A needle that is worn, or has a rough eye can weaken the thread as it passes through so make sure you're using a high quality, sharp needle.
• Adjust your tension
  Natural threads can be more sensitive to high tension. If you’re experiencing breakage, slightly lowering the tension can help reduce strain on the thread.
• Keep your machine clean + well maintained
  Natural threads may produce a little more lint than polyester. Regular cleaning helps keep everything running smoothly. Regular checks can identify tiny burrs in machine parts that can cause breakages.
• Test before you start
  As with any new material, it’s worth testing your setup on a scrap piece of fabric before committing to your final garment.
• Slow down your sewing speed
  Sewing at very high speeds can increase friction and stress on the thread. A steadier pace often leads to smoother, more consistent results. Most domestic sewing machines do not reach a speed that would be an issue for natural threads - this is more relevant for industrial environments.
• Store your threads properly
  Natural threads should be stored in a cool, dark and dry environment (to protect them from sun, moisture and dust)

CAN I USE CONES ON MY DOMESTIC MACHINE?

Yes — cones of thread can be used on most domestic sewing machines and can be a more cost efficient and lower-waste option over time..

Buying thread on cones is a great way to reduce waste and, in many cases, offers better value than smaller spools. While domestic machines are typically designed for spools, there are a couple of simple ways to use cones successfully.

You can use a cone directly on your machine with a separate thread stand (there are many options available, including simple DIY versions). These allow the thread to feed smoothly from the cone without tangling.

Alternatively, you can wind thread from the cone onto a standard spool or bobbin using your machine. This is a quick and easy option, and works well if you prefer to sew with a spool setup. It also allows you to use the same thread across your sewing machine, overlocker, and coverstitch machine.

  

DO I NEED AN EXACT COLOUR MATCH?

Not necessarily.

One of the advantages of natural threads is that they tend to have a softer, more matte finish compared to polyester. This allows them to blend more subtly into fabric, making slight colour variations far less noticeable.

In many cases, you don’t need a perfect match — choosing a thread that sits within the same tonal family is often enough to achieve a cohesive result.

This can make the process of selecting thread simpler and more flexible, especially when working with natural fabrics.

 

ARE NATURAL SEWING THREADS EXPENSIVE?

No — not when you look a little closer. Our organic cotton and Tencel™ threads are comparable in price to high-quality polyester threads.

Most conventional thread is sold in small spools, which can make it seem cheaper at first glance. Our threads are sold on larger spools and cones, giving you better value per metre while also reducing packaging waste.

That’s what we call a double win.

 

WHAT THREAD TO USE:  A Guide to Fabrics and Applications

Brand	Weight	Fibre	Creds	Recommended Fabrics	Price/100m
Scanfil	50/2	100% Organic Cotton	GOTS Oeko-Tex	Light-med weight woven natural + cellulose fabrics including delicate and sheer fabrics Light-med weight natural knits (without elastane)	$4.38/metre
Scanfil	30/2	100% Organic Cotton	GOTS Oeko-Tex	Med-heavy weight woven fabrics including denim.   Mid-heavy weight natural knits (without elastane)	$4.18/metre
Celofil	Tex 32	100% Lenzing Tencel™ Lyocell	Oeko- Text FSC certified	Lightweight + delicate woven or knit fabrics including lightweight bridal fabrics + lingerie
Celofil	Tex 40	100% Lenzing Tencel™ Lyocell	Oeko-Tex FSC certified	Light-med weight woven or knit fabrics including delicate + sheer fabrics, merino and fabrics with added elastane	60¢/metre
Celofil	Tex 60	100% Lenzing Tencel™ Lyocell	Oeko-Tex FSC certified	Any heavy weight woven such as denim, canvas, cotton + linen or upholstery fabrics	90¢/metre
Sewpure	Tex 40	100% Organic Cotton	GOTS	Any light-heavy weight woven fabrics or natural knits (without elastane)	$1.58/metre

 

Questions not answered?

We’ll never leave you hanging so if you have any further questions or need any support email us at hello@paperscissorscloth.co.nz and we will be more than happy to assist you.

Looking for a different thread colour or weight?

We have access to additional thread stock including lighter and heavier weights and more colours, so again just get in touch and tell us what you need!