Choosing thread isn’t just a technical decision – it’s part of the overall character of a garment. Pairing natural fabrics with natural or cellulose-derived threads can create a softer, more cohesive finish and supports a more considered approach to sewing.
Cotton Thread (Scanfil and Sewpure)
Best for stable natural fabrics with little to no stretch.
Use cotton thread for:
- Linen
- Cotton poplin
- Cotton lawn
- Hemp
- Denim
- Canvas
- Quilting cotton
- Stable natural fibre knits (without elastane)
- Top stitching
Why?
- Blends beautifully into natural fabrics
- Can handle high ironing temperatures
- Dyes alongside natural fabrics
- Creates a more cohesive, natural finish
Which cotton thread weight?
- Universal cotton thread (50/2) → light-mid fabrics like lawn, voile, shirting and dress linens
- Heavier cotton thread (30/2) → denim, canvas, heavier linen and utility garments. Top stitching.
Tencel™ Thread (Celofil)
Best for fabrics that need a little more flexibility or softness.
Use Tencel™ thread for:
- Merino
- Stretch cotton knits
- Fabrics containing elastane
- Lightweight jerseys
- Drapey woven fabrics i.e. Tencel™, Silk
- Delicate fabrics where a softer seam is preferred
Why?
- Slightly more flexible than cotton
- Smooth and low-lint
- Strong while remaining plastic-free
- Works well for garments requiring movement
Which Tencel™ thread weight?
- Tex 32 → fine, delicate woven and knit fabrics
- Tex 40 → most garment sewing
- Tex 60 → heavy fabrics like canvas, denim or upholstery. Top stitching.
Quick Fabric-to-Thread Matching Guide
| Fabric Type | Recommended Thread |
|
Linen |
Cotton |
|
Cotton Poplin |
Cotton |
|
Cotton Lawn/Voile |
Universal Cotton or Universal (Tex 40) Tencel™ |
|
Denim |
Heavy Cotton or Universal (Tex 60) Tencel™ |
|
Canvas |
Heavy Cotton or Universal (Tex 60) Tencel™ |
|
Hemp |
Cotton |
|
Merino |
Tencel™ |
|
Cotton Jersey (no elastane) |
Cotton |
|
Stretch Knits/ elastane blend |
Tencel™ |
|
Delicate Sheers |
Fine (Tex 32) Tencel™ |
A Few Helpful Tips
- If your thread keeps snapping, it’s often a machine setup issue rather than the thread itself. Needle choice and tension make a huge difference.
- Regular cleaning and maintenance of your machine helps to manage lint and ensure there aren't any burrs in the machine parts that might cause threads to skip or snap
- You don’t always need a perfect colour match – natural threads tend to blend more softly into fabric.
- In a manufacturing environment you may need to reduce the speed of your machine
For a deeper dive into natural sewing threads, you can read the full guide on Sewing With Natural Threads
Ready To Get Started? Browse our full collection of Natural Sewing Threads.