Skip to product information
1 of 7

Birgitta Helmersson

ZERO WASTE COAT | PDF Sewing Pattern

ZERO WASTE COAT | PDF Sewing Pattern

Regular price $27.00 NZD
Regular price Sale price $27.00 NZD
Sale Sold out

The ZW Coat by Birgitta Helmersson is an unlined unisex oversized coat with a batwing sleeve, round collar and patch pockets. The short coat has a front button closure and the long coat has a front button closure and waist tie. Includes tips on how to cut a lining if you want to add this.

This style currently comes in one size but is being updated to include an extended size range.

Heads up! This is a digital PDF sewing pattern. You will not receive a physical pattern, you will be emailed a link to download the pattern after purchase.


This pattern comes with 2 options, a short and a long coat. The short coat is suitable for beginners and up, the long coat is more suited to mid to intermediate sewers, however if you make the short coat as your first project and progress to the long coat for your next one this would work well as a lot of the steps are the same.

This is a one size pattern which fits the size range below.

  • Size One (EU 36 - 44)

Sewing level: Intermediate

PDF Contents: Includes measurements in both metric (centimetres)and US imperial (inches). Booklet/Templates are printable on both A4 or US Letter paper size.

Fabric + Notions

Fabric type: Ideal in a mid to heavy weight wool coating. This can also work in a lighter wool or cotton drill for more of a light jacket or trench coat style. You will need to fuse part of your collar if you choose a lighter weight fabric.

Lining: This coat doesn’t need a lining but the booklet includes tips on how to add one.

Fabric Requirements:

Recommended width: 145 – 160 cm / 57 – 63 inches

Recommended yardage:

  • Short coat: 140cm / 55 1/2 inches (approx 1.55 yards)
  • Long coat: 200cm / 78 inches (approx 2.2 yards)

*This coat is cut against the grain (crosswise) which means that the width of your fabric determines the length of your coat.


  • Bias tape or binding approx 3 metres / 118 inches.
  • Buttons x 3. Recommended size 2 - 2.5cm / ¾ – 1 inch.
  • Iron on fusing, approx 25cm / 10 inch for lighter weight fabrics.
  • Elastic or a length of cord. This is required if you are doing the short coat hack to gather in the back hem.

Size Chart

Size One (EU 36 - 44): Chest/bust 86-104cm / 33-40", waist 66-84cm / 26-33", hip 88-108cm / 34-42"

Finished Garment Measuremensts:

Short Coat:

  • Length, shoulder to hem: 77cm / 30 1/4 inch
  • Chest/waist/hem circumference: 185cm / 72 3/4 inch
  • Sleeve/arm length, true shoulder point to sleeve hem: 57cm / 22 1/2 inch
  • Sleeve bicep circumference: 42cm / 16 ½ inch
  • Sleeve wrist circumference: 27cm / 10 ½ inch

 Long Coat:

  • Length, shoulder to hem: 118cm / 46 inch
  • Chest/waist/hem circumference: 162cm / 63 ½ inch
  • Sleeve/arm length, true shoulder point to sleeve hem: 57cm / 22 inch
  • Sleeve bicep circumference: 52cm / 20 inch
  • Sleeve wrist circumference: 37cm / 14 ½ inch

*Based on using a fabric that is 150cm / 59 inches wide. You can make this coat longer or shorter by choosing a fabric with a wider or narrower width. 


Zero waste pattern cutting is a method of pattern drafting where you utilise a length of fabric end to end by strategically planning your pattern pieces so that everything is used. This pattern is ‘paperless’ meaning that no printing of large pattern pieces is required. Instead of using full scale paper patterns, you draw your pattern pieces directly onto your fabric with the aid of a cutting plan and small templates.

Advantages to this method include:

More flexibility
This method allows for easy changes such as using different fabric widths and making simple fit and design changes yourself. Using patterns that fit into a zero waste square or rectangular block is a very efficient way to work. It means that it is easier to patchwork together remnants or use left over fabrics you already have lying around.

An easy way to learn to self draft your own patterns
Working this way will help you to start building a toolbox of skills, and you will learn an alternative method of self drafting your own sewing patterns, which are super easy for beginners to understand.

Less fabric and paper waste

View full details

We're sew social

Don't be shy. We would love to see what you are making. Tag us @paper.scissors.cloth on Instagram or Facebook and join the posse! #pscposse #makeitbetter